From the moment we’re born, we’re drilled with the skin commandments. It begins with a sister, mum or magazine telling us to never sleep in makeup or that rubbing your eyes causes wrinkles and ends with a whole lot of confusion.
To demystify these commandments, I spoke to Education Manager at the International Dermal Institute, Emma Hobson about the real sins of skincare and how you too can get the glow of supermodels .
1. Switching Between Products
‘Cherry picking’ from several brands often means you aren’t going to get the best performance out of the products you use, many skin care products work synergistically together, designed with ingredients to be not only compatible but ‘complement’ each other’s effectiveness.
2. Eating Sugar
Sadly yes, sugar does cause wrinkles! We now know that collagen and elastin proteins (essential for a firm, youthful skin) are highly susceptible to an internal chemical reaction within our body called glycation. The same glucose that provides energy for our cells can react with proteins (such as collagen), resulting in the formation of Advanced Glycation End-products (AGEs). The formation of AGEs occurs spontaneously when sugar molecules come in contact with proteins. AGE’s contributes to the ‘thickening’ and ‘stiffening’ of protein fibers resulting in wrinkles, the loss of elasticity causing sagging and changes in the dermis associated with the ageing process.
So, next time you look at that piece of chocolate cake, don’t worry about the calories as much as the way it’s going to age your skin! You also need to be careful in the way you are cooking your food; when grilling/frying (without water) foods containing proteins with those that contain sugars then AGEs are also formed.
The most advanced ingredients to protect the skin from AGEs are; Arginine/Lysine Polypeptide, Glucosamine HCl, Glycine Soya Protein (Soy) and Genestein. Supplements that are known to fight glycation include carnosine, carnitine, pyridoxamine (a derivative of vitamin B-6), thiamine (vitamin B-1), alpha lipoic acid and benfotiamine.
3. Over Cleansing
It’s not so much about over doing it, it’s really about what you are using too much of. Double cleansing morning and night is excellent for the skin and you can even do an extra cleanse post-work out if needed. The challenge, however, comes if you choose a cleanser which has stripping or drying properties, it like a soap/soap-based gel or a cleanser with alcohol in it, because these will defiantly have a negative impact on the skin. The same goes with exfoliants. Ideally, you should use an exfoliant two or three times per week. If you have sensitive skin, try and avoid scrubs altogether.
What can be added to your skin care and still not ‘overdo it’ would be a ‘foliate’, meaning a mild skin polish with a microfoliant or a serum containing hydroxy acids which is gentle enough to use daily in addition. For women in particular, it would not be advisable to use a stronger exfoliant daily on the skin.
4. Skipping a Morning Face Wash
It’s essential to cleanse in the morning as skin collects dirt, dead skin debris, (bed bugs) and grime (especially off our pillows) during our sleep, it also removes last night’s residue of moisturiser. By cleansing in the morning ensures you have a fresh ‘palette’ to apply your skin care products and make-up.
Aussies tend to believe that they either have a ‘base tan’ or olive skin which means they don’t need sunscreen; a huge lie. The sun’s rays can be incredibly damaging to the skin and is the number one cause of wrinkles and pigmentation. Sunscreen should be worn daily, despite the weather.
If you’re after flawless skin this summer, find a skin routine that suits you and stick with it. Never underestimate the importance of sunscreen and learn to read your skin – so you know when it’s dehydrated or dull.
For more, visit www.dermalogica.com.au